Situated in the heart of the Cordillera Real, Chachacomani stands as one of Bolivia’s impressive massifs, towering at an elevation of 6,100 meters (20,013 feet). This colossal peak is part of Bolivia’s elite group of 6,000-meter giants, renowned for its commanding presence and the challenge it poses to climbers.
The first documented ascent of Chachacomani was achieved in 1929 by a French expedition led by De Lagrange. However, it was in June 1973 when a team of climbers—Bauer, Edlinger, Streif, and Kerchbaumsteiner—successfully reached the summit via the North Face- Rout North, making a notable ascent through this demanding route.
In June 1947, another courageous team consisting of J. Sanjines, G. Bucholtz, D. Moore, and M. Pahud achieved the summit of Chachacomani via the South Face, following the South Route. This accomplishment marked a significant milestone in Bolivian mountaineering history, highlighting the versatility and allure of this majestic massif.
Unfrequented mountain, which makes it wilder and more unique.
Georgous altitude camp onde edge of the glacieal plateau.
Stunning view from the summit ridge is totally worth it.
FR: AD + / USA: Its extensive glacier with many open cracks makes the ascension a bit difficult, the same ones that usually change every season, but the use of a classic ice ax is enough for ascension to the summit.
We depart from La Paz at 8:00 a.m., embarking on a 3 to 4-hour journey to the village of Alto Cruz Pampa. From there, with the assistance of mules, we begin our trek through the scenic Chachacomani Valley. After approximately 4 hours of trekking, we arrive at Base Camp (4,650 m / 15,255 ft.), where we settle in for our first night surrounded by the tranquility of the Andes.
After breakfast, we continue our ascent toward Campamento Alto (5,200 m / 17,012 ft.), a journey of about 4 hours. The trail takes us through a serene valley with puna grasslands and thola shrubs before reaching the rocky slopes at the edge of the glacier. We spend the night here, preparing for the summit climb.
Our ascent begins at 1:00 a.m., as we cross a vast glacier over the course of approximately 5 hours. The climb culminates with a ridge leading to the summit of Chachacomani (6,100 m / 20,013 ft.), a challenging but rewarding journey that takes about 6 to 7 hours in total. From the summit, we are greeted with awe-inspiring views of the Royal Range and its shimmering lagoons. After taking in the vistas, we descend back to the High Camp, eat a hot soup and short break, then continue until the Base Camp in half the time, where we rest after the day’s achievement.
After a restful night’s sleep, we pack our equipment and load it onto the mules. We retrace our steps back to the village of Alto Cruz Pampa, where our transport awaits to take us back to La Paz.
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