Illimani is the highest peak in the Cordillera Real of the Andes and the second highest mountain in Bolivia, standing at 6,452 meters (21,168 feet). This majestic mountain dominates the skyline of La Paz, the capital city of Bolivia, offering a dramatic and imposing presence with its five prominent summits, the three main summits each add to its grandeur and present unique challenges to climbers and the two lesser peaks provide an even more technical climb. As always, the harder the challenge, the bigger the rewards – the views are more than worth it!
Despite the challenges, the Illimani rewards climbers with breathtaking views that extend across the high-altitude landscapes of Bolivia. From the summit, one can gaze out over the vast expanse of the Andes, the city of La Paz, and the shimmering waters of Lake Titicaca in the distance. The sense of accomplishment from reaching the top of this imposing peak, coupled with the spectacular scenery, makes the climb an unforgettable experience.
Its High Camp isn’t called Nido de Condores for nothing! As the name suggests, this is an unequalled place of stunning birds’ eye views with precipices to each side. At night, while laying in your tent, you can hear small avalanches crashing down on both sides of this protected platform.
Visiting this place is worth every single breath of this air.
Up to Nido de Condores is a steep, exposed trail with loose rock , with a 60 m rock scramble up to the platform. Climbing the South Peak, there are many ridges and ice. We climb the “Escaleras al Cielo” (Stairway to Heaven) of 60° for 50 m. with a very tense rope and classical ice axe, while avoiding large crevasses.
Recommended for trained andinists and to be very well acclimatized.
Departure from La Paz at 9:00 a.m. in private transport. We head out for 4 hours through beautiful rock formations and canyons until we reach the town of Pinaya (4,000 m), where we will take a break to register for the mountain entrance and then have lunch while enjoying the rural atmosphere and a view of the Illimani.
After lunch, we continue for one more hour towards the plains of Puente Roto (4,600 m), where we will set up our base camp. From this point, we will be able to see the peaks of the majestic Illimani, whose silhouette dominates the horizon. At night, we will have dinner and rest in high mountain tents.
After breakfast, we begin the hike to Nido de Cóndores (5,550 m), our high camp. The route will take us through earthen slopes at the beginning and rocky terrain towards the end, characterized by uneven ground that challenges both physical endurance and rock climbing technique.
During the approximately 5-hour ascent, we will enjoy spectacular views of the valley, while the majesty of Illimani becomes increasingly evident. We arrive at Nido de Cóndores, a small, sheltered rock ledge, where we will set up our high camp. This strategic point offers natural shelter and breathtaking views, making it an ideal spot to acclimatize and prepare for the summit attempt.
Light dinner and early rest in tents, with a privileged view of the snow-capped peaks and the night sky.
We depart around 1:00 a.m. to start the ascent to the South Summit of Illimani. The trek takes approximately 7 hours and lead us along the main glacier ridge, featuring impressive views and demanding technical sections.
During the ascent, we will face two technical climbing sections with an incline of approximately 50°, which will test our ice climbing skills and endurance. The route is challenging but rewarding, with the reward of unparalleled panoramic views from the summit. Upon reaching the summit of Illimani (6,452 m), we celebrate our achievement while enjoying incredible views of the Cordillera Real and the vast Bolivian Altiplano.
After a brief rest at the summit, we begin our descent back to Nido de Cóndores, where we rest a bit and have a soup to replenish our energy. We then gather our gear and continue descending to the Base Camp (Puente Roto), where we will spend the night recovering from this demanding day of climbing.
After a restorative breakfast, we gather all our equipment and dismantle the camp. We then take our transport and embark on the journey back to Pinaya, and then to La Paz, enjoying once again the views of the rock formations and canyons that characterize the landscape of this region. We arrive in La Paz in the afternoon, concluding our adventure on Illimani.
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