The Condoriri Valley, located in the stunning Cordillera Real of Bolivia, is home to a group of exceptional mountains, with thirteen peaks rising above 5,000 meters in altitude. Among these giants, the most prominent and emblematic is the Cabeza de Cóndor, which rises to 5,720 meters above sea level. It is distinguished by its unique shape, resembling the head of a colossal petrified condor. Its structure features two prominent wings—one to the left and one to the right—that contribute to the mountain’s majestic and striking appearance. This distinctive profile gives it a unique character and makes it an iconic symbol of the valley.
The Cabeza de Cóndor is not only a visually impressive spectacle but also a natural monument that attracts mountaineers and nature enthusiasts alike. Its imposing presence and unmistakable shape make this mountain a highly coveted destination for experienced climbers, due to its technical climbing route.
This condor-shaped mountain is what gives the Condoriri valley it’s mystical, protected feel. Central to the Cordillera Real, scaling the Head of the Condor provides a beautiful view of the surrounding valley and 13 peaks.
The Head of the Condor is a mixed climb (with rock and ice), and much more technical than its neighbor Pequeño Alpamayo. Some areas require climbing rock with crampons and ice axe. In attempting this peak, one should have significant experience in ice climbing, be comfortable with rappels and know how to use climbing equipment.
We begin our journey with a scenic two-hour drive from La Paz, passing through the Palcoco Valley, until we reach La Rinconada. From there, we embark on a two-hour hike through the stunning Condoriri Valley, surrounded by beautiful snowcapped peaks. Our destination is Laguna Chiarkhota (4,650 m), where we will set up our Base Camp, nestled beside the serene waters of the lake and in the shadow of the majestic Condoriri Mountain Range. After settling in, you'll have the rest of the afternoon to acclimatize and enjoy the andean nature, preparing for the summit attempt of the iconic Cabeza de Condor in the coming day.
After the breakfast, around 01:00 am we start the ascent , from the Base Camp we trek across the valley towards Pico Austria 2 hours. From here, we cut across the base of the Left Wing to reach the base of the glacier. From this point on, all climbing gear is used extensively. At the base of the head, we enter a steep, narrow rock couloir (hallway). Once through, we cross a rock ledge and scale the rock and ice surface to reach the summit (5,720 m). we have the stunning panoramic view of the Andean landscape and the Royal Range around. We cautiously descend back to the base camp using rappels.
After a restful night, we start the day with a hearty breakfast before packing up camp. We then set out two-hour hike back to La Rinconada, where our vehicle will be waiting to drive us back to La Paz, marking the end of an unforgettable adventure in the Condoriri region.
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